We arrived in Tel Aviv ten days ago, jet-lagged and weary. We drove to
Caesarea Martime. And walked into wind, sun, stone ruins of Herod the
Great's palace, and the wind-whipped Meditterenean. Waves washing around
rocks and ruins. Carved stone. Cut stone. Cisterns and channels for
fresh water, and magnificent ways to delight in the sea.
Little did I know how the motifs of stone and water would shape my
journey. I picked up rocks from almost every place we visited. I have as
yet unidentified pictures of hills and mountains and valleys, the big
rocks. And the Mediterranean, the Sea of Galilee, the springs and
cisterns and wells and channels and dried streambeds and mud and
waterfalls and the Dead Sea.
These formed people's across time. Stones for housing and streets,
palaces and shrines, terraces and memorials. . . For stoning and
battering and keeping people apart. Water for survival, for ritual
baths, for delight. . . And floods and storms and pitched battles over
access to water.
Visible geological strata, showing how earthquakes and glaciers and
volcanos shaped the foundations of many layers of civilization. Pockets
of green on brown earth, suggesting a spring. I pick up sandstone in
Caesarea Martime, volcanic rock at Chorazin, pebbles and tiny shells
from the Sea of Gaillee's beaches, a pale rock with red lines from
Megiddo, a red rock from Masada, salt from the Dead Sea, limestone from
the streets of Jerusalem.
I've been marking myself with holy water more than I ever have before.
Of course, I have rarely been in so many churches in so few days, but
isn't usually my practice. I'm seeking renewal, and transformation, and
I understand the gift of water in the desert more profoundly than ever.
The Spirit of God moves across the waters. The church of the
Visitation, in Ein Karem, the Judean countryside, had mosaics of
seahorses and jellyfish and sea stars! Fish are all over too.
The Via Dolorosa with stone steps worn smooth led to carved stone
churches and, in the Holy Sepulcher, caves that ended for me with dirt
of the floor, the disintegration of stone, obliteration, death. . . And
began again with holy water, sun in the church courtyard, a water
bottle, prayer and a song. Then a visit to the well at Samaria--Jacob's
and Rachel's and the woman who told her village all that Jesus had
done.
All of creation groans in travail--I see centuries of interaction
between stones and water and humans and plants and animals to create,
with God, weal and woe. And the marks of civilization for thousands of
years are layered in the dirt, and present day peoples pay more
attention to how to conserve water and talk around water coolers and
live into the water of eternal life, gushing and sustaining and renewing
the face of the earth.
Allison
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